From oils in China through the Master of Salerno to today’s well-known German spirit of wine – our interview partner Kur Sartorius, initiator and leader of the “Schwäbisches Schnapsmuseums Bönnigheim” (Swabian Hard Liquor Museum in Bönnigheim) shares his expert knowledge!
BrüggemannAlcohol: When was a distillation process carried out for the first time in history?
Kurt Sartorius: The process of distillation has been in existence for more than 5,000 years. The Chinese and Egyptians were considered to be the pioneers for this process. They were the first to have distilling equipment. However, there is no confirmed evidence that they produced alcohol. Rather, they used it to make perfumes such as rose oil. The difference between this and the distillation of alcohol was that this oil production did not require a cooler.
BrüggemannAlcohol: When did the production of alcohol first start and for what purpose was it used?
Kurt Sartorius: Recent findings in China show that oldest known “wine“ was produced 9,500 years ago. With a low alcohol content and mainly in the form of must and honey wine, this was consumed by the nobility and the wealthy at that time. In the 11th century, strong brandy was first produced in the University of Salerno (Italy). The Magister Salernus is still considered to be the discoverer of alcohol distillation. Back then he described his process with a lot of odd signs that only insiders were supposed to read. Nevertheless, the general production of alcohol was limited to very small amounts due to inadequate equipment. Initially, the spirit could only be used as a medicine as the quantity available didn’t suffice to make luxury foods out of it. People discovered alcohol’s pleasant effect as consumer good many years later. With the invention of the water cooler in the 14th century, the facilities for producing alcohol improved. Now larger quantities could be produced and the production of drinking spirits as luxury goods began.
BrüggemannAlcohol: Why do the Germans call potable alcohol also “Weingeist” (wine spirit)?
Kurt Sartorius: “Weingeist” (Wine Spirit) is the oldest term for potable alcohol. Until 1800 the people believed in the Greek world view that the eart exists of four non-combinable elements (water, fire, earth, air). By advancing the production of alcohol that perspective began to change. Initially grapes, meaning wine, have been used as raw material for spirit drinks. In the next step a burning water arose and such a spooky, previously inconceivable reaction led to the term “Weingeist” (Wine Spirit). This sudden connection of the four elements, which were once impossible to combine, made a formative contribution to our view of the world today.
BrüggemannAlcohol: Why do the Germans call schnapps „Schnaps“?
Kurt Sartorius: That most common name “Schnaps” derives from the Low German language and relates to the verb „schnappen“ (to snap). The point is to "snap" the spirit with a small, quick sip.
BrüggemannAlcohol: Where did liqueur develop from?
Kurt Sartorius: Once the distillation process was fully developed, people discovered quite early the benefits of alcohol in terms of dissolving and conserving effective healing substances. That is how various medication got produced until today (e.g. homeopathic drops or herbal medicine). The disadvantage: An extremely bitter taste in the final product. Let's take the example of the Bloodwort, a plant supporting digestive problems. Its roots are prepared in water, which results in a dark red and bitter schnapps. To make this bitter medicine enjoyable people would add sugar or honey. That is how liqueur emerged – which is, in my eyes, no other than sweetened medicine.
If there is a person entitled to call himself an expert of the history of alcohol, it definitely would be Kurt Sartorius, initiator und leader of the “Schwäbisches Schnapsmuseum Bönnigheim”. He completed his first spirit distillery 44 years ago and has ever since been dealing intensively with the history of alcohol. As a result, the distillery was to be turned into a local museum. In 1985, based on a recommendation from the state museum and considering the large number of already existing regional wine museums, the plan changed and led to the creation of a specialized schnaps museum which opened in 1993. Today Kurt Sartorius has Germany's largest alcohol history museum collection. In particular, distillation techniques, the development of alcohol history and illicit distillery are among his areas of expertise. In 2020 the “Schwäbische Schnapsmuseum Bönnigheim” was nominated for the German Berlin Spirit Awards of Tradition.
Picture Credits: Kräuterbuch des Matthioli, 1586 / Schwäbisches Schnapsmuseum Bönnigheim / Alembic. A still with alembic and air cooling.